Who built Smolensky Kremlin. Smolensk Fortress (Smolensk Kremlin)

Smolensk fortress, also called the Kremlin, is one of the most powerful defensive structures in Russia, which remained not entirely, and fragmentary, since most of the fortress was dismantled in the XIX century due to the loss of strategic importance. The length of the walls of the fortress was 6 and a half kilometers, the wall thickness is 5 meters.

Smolensk is known from 863 years old. In 1127 he became the center of the Smolensky principality after Rostislav, the son of Kiev Prince Mstislav, received Smolensk himself in the lot. After the Mongolian invasion, the Smolensk Principality occupies the position of "buffer" between the two elevated great principalities - Moscow and Lithuanian. And after the conclusion in 1385, the Krevian Ulyg between the Kingdom of the Polish and Grand Durability of Lithuanian Smolensk swores the Polish king Yagailo. In turn, the Lithuanian Prince Vitovt took Smolensk in 1395, taking advantage of the princely internecraft there. In 1401, Ryazan Prince Oleg discovered Smolensk at Vitovt, executed all Boyar-supporters of Lithuania and planted at the Smolensk throne Yury Svyatoslavich. However, in 1404, Smolensk again moved to Lithuania after passing the city by boyars. According to the Moscow-Lithuanian Treaty of 1449, the Moscow State refused Smolensk.

However, everything turned out to be not so simple. Already in 1514, after two unsuccessful attempts of the siege, Russian troops took Smolensk and began to promote deep into the Lithuanian state, soon however, the defeat under Ors. In 1522, the Moscow-Lithuanian truce was concluded, according to the terms of which the Smolensk land went to Moscow, and the city of Smolensk became the Western border outpost of the Russian state. In 1595-1602, by decree of Boris Godunov, the architect Fedor horse built a stone fortress in Smolensk, preserved to the present day. The need to build a powerful and defensed fortress in Smolensk was dictated by its border position, it is all the more so on the border with the most dangerous neighbor - a response, a powerful Eastern European state formed after the conclusion in 1569 by the Lublin Union between Poland and Lithuania.

However, already in 1611, after a two-year siege, Smolensk was taken by the Poles, and in 1618, according to the deuly truce, departed to Poland. The Smolensk fortress has now become the eastern outpost of the speech by compolong. But for a long time - in 1654 Smolensk had already finally departed to Russia.

Smolensk fortress, as I said, remained in fragments that are now in different parts of the city. By their location, you can trace the holistic line of the fortress, which in the past washing the city around the perimeter, as can be seen on the map below (the map is taken from the Internet space):

First, I show two preserved fragments in the northern part of the fortress. This segment of the wall stretched along the shore of the Dnieper.

2. View from the side of the Dnieper, that is, outside the fortress wall.

3. And this is the view from the inside. In the background it is clear that the red brick house is close to the fortress wall.

4. In this place the fragment of the fortress wall stands between the houses, being adapted under the restaurant "Smolensk Fortress" and the Museum of Russian Vodka.

5. At the gate the fortress wall in the longitudinal section descends to the ground under the tilt.

6. In 1811-1812, the Church of the Smolensk Icon of God's Mother of God was "built-in" the Church of the Smolensk Icon of God, that is, the "guide". On both sides of the dome there are two bell tower. In the past, the church was notable.

7. Volkova Tower closes this preserved section of the fortress.

8. A little indeed stands the Red Tower:

9. Wrapped, you can see another fragment of the fortress from above, on the hill, over the private sector. This frame is visible to the Tower of Vezelukha, who gained his name at the long-time recreation center Smollyan. It is the photo of this tower from a close distance you see on the title frame.

10. Up, among private houses, Timiryazev's street rises, paved by a cobblestone:

11. Getting up, it stretches along the fortress wall. Very strange to see a powerful fortress wall and private wooden houses with grandmothers discussing harvesting. I have nowhere, except for old Ladoga, did not see.

12. Pozdnyakova Tower. Behind the trees is a spiritual seminary.

13. Passing a little more, I saw the gate in the fortress wall and went inside the fortress. More precisely, on the contrary, it came out. :)

This, partially renovated part of the fortress is absolutely not visited by tourists. Judging by the footsteps from the fires, Smolyan walk here on picnics. And at the moment of my stay in this place there, besides me, there was no one at all that I was surprised.

14. Tower of Eagle:

15. From here there is a picturesque view of the ravines and the slope of the hill, descending to the Dnieper:

16. View of the fortress from the outside. Behind the trees a little visible Late Tower:

17. Asspensky Cathedral is visible:

18. Abrahamieva and the Baltic Tower. In the Abrahamoy Tower, as I see, the same design technique is used as in a nut and old lag - the gate have a M-shaped form, in order to enter the inner gate to the direct vendor.

19. And this is the tower of Eagle. Only from the inside:

20. Abraamiyev and the Baltic Tower on the inside:

21. Staircase inside the Abraham Tower. It did not get it, the staircase is cool, and behind the shoulders a heavy backpack. :)

22. By the title "Caltar Tower" it is not difficult to guess that there is any major temple nearby. Indeed, the monastery was located nearby (the name and neighboring tower) was located nearby, from which now only the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord, prominent on the right side of the frame, was now preserved.

The fortress stretches further to the south side, but I, unfortunately, did not go there. But I went to the southern part of it, located in the city center. The fortress walls here are in the Lopatin Garden - Smolensk Park of Culture and Leisure. People here are much more.

23. The Thunder Tower stands separately:

24. Nearby is a monument to Fedor Konya - the builder of the Smolensk Fortress:

26. And then the fortress wall begins again and the ditch stretching along it. In the background you can see the Kopten Tower:

28. More gates:

29. The left leaves another earthen shaft, which remained from the Royal Bastion - Polish construction of the 1630s.

30. Types of walls on the inside:

In general, the Smolensk fortress, named by Boris Godunov "Necklace of the Russian Earth" represents, in my opinion, an interesting sample of Russian fortification architecture. Honestly, I was especially surprised by the northeastern part of the fortress, where an every time-powerful and rich history is a serfdom of a fortress wall, "the grandmothers discusses the harvest (I already mentioned it), next to the tower there is a sports field. In this case, there are no visitors. Although the neighborhood with the fortress wall is local Smolyan, of course, accustomed. :)

And considering the topic on a federal scale, I unexpected for myself learned that in the Smolensk region in the village of Flenovo, too, there is also a terry teremok, deserving of my attention. So the idea was born to go and see! We drove through Roslavl. The road took about 4.5 hours :)

ANDstoriko-architectural complex "Teremok" (and besides the lace house, which we went to see, there was still a lot of everything interesting!) Openfrom 10.00 to 17.00, on Friday a little less - until 16.00, and on Monday, chain dogs are descended - and no fairy tale.

Terems stands in the former estate of Princess Maria Tenishva. Who is she? - you ask. Russian aristocrat, collector of art objects, patentators and great enlightened. Her portraits wrote Repin, Serov, Vrubel, Korovin. Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky himself admired her vocal skill. Roerich called her estate "art nest", and evil tongues said that she imites Savva Mamontov. Tenisheva was a very noticeable figure of his time. Contemporaries called her "pride of Russia."

For example, how often did you draw you? Princess Tenishev - often! And I would like to think that from sincere admiration. I will show the four of its most famous portraits. Although only the repinne is about a dozen about them :)

From the book of Maria Tenishva "Impressions of my life":

"... I'm sick to death to pose Repin. He wrote and painted me almost six or seven times, tormented without end, and portraits went out one worse than the other, and every time I had trouble with my husband every time: he could not see them. In addition, the repincial insincerity and flattering me were bored: "That's the way ... as well ... what a beautiful pose ..."

Ay da Repin! Ay yes Sukin Son! :)))))
Portrait of his authorship. One of (1896).

And this is the work of Valentina Serov (1898). Judging by the face of Tenisheva, he is not the fact that she was tormented by a repincial, he really tied it :)))

For the arrival of Konstantin Korovina, the princess has already been completed with his gravity shares "forever to positive" (1899).

The most interesting and unusual, in my opinion, the portrait of Mary Tenisheva in the image of Valkiriya Vrubel (1899). For reference: Valkyrie - the heroine of Scandinavian myths, which Reets on the winged horse over the battlefield, picks up fallen warriors and sends them to heavenly.

One day, Prince Tenishev presented his wife's birthday to the whole estate, bought it from Catherine Svyatopolk-Four-China (Princess girlfriend). And Maria Claudiyevna turned this corner of the Earth into a real Russian fairy tale! True, not so much has been preserved - the manor has suffered a lot during the Great Patriotic War.

The main decoration of the manor Teremok was built on the draft Russian artist Sergei Malyutin in 1901.By the way, Malyutin is the author of the painting of the first Russian matryoshka and illustrations for Pushkin's fairy tales: "Ruslan and Lyudmila", "about Tsar Saltan", "On the dead princess and seven heroes", "About the Golden Cockerel".

In the fabulous terrel, everything is obliged to be fabulous :) Everything is to the smallest details. On the walls, doors, shutters, eaves - everywhere there are wonderful animals, magic flowers and cunning patterns.

Princess Tenisheva and herself painted very well, fond of art enamel and dreamed of reviving this technique in Russia. Her work was exhibited in London, Prague, Brussels, Paris. In Teremka, they are also represented. One - right on the old brick foundation :) Similarity with a bear-uniniege accidental.

In general, we did not leave the feeling of the fabulousness of this place. It seemed that we will open the door, and from there, how the skates-hunchback, fire-birds, carpets, aircraft, boots, swords, bears, bragies will be allowed ... "Open the door" we were allowed for 50 p. per person. To be illictly to photograph, it was necessary to give another 200 r. Here, from somewhere, the magic toad got out and banned me to silent money. As a result, I made only three frames.

In the Teremka every thing is special. You read the names of the authors, and the diva is given. The world of Vrubel fantasies, Malyutina, Vasnetsova and many others ...

Not far from Teremka, on a high hill - Church of the Holy Spirit In the style of ancient Russian traditions: multi-tiered "Kokoshniki", steps flowing into the sky, a small bulbous iron head, but the most impressive is a face over the entrance. He is huge. In the sun rays - delightfully calm, at dusk - a little ominous, it is like "alive"!

Mosaic panel "Savior Independent" on the facade of the temple performed Nikolai Roerich, who was friends with the princess Tenishcheva.

He (with sons) worked on the interior of the temple. Painted was called "C. heavenly Alina on the River River". Alas, these frescoes are not preserved. Only black and white photo of 1911. Photo source: rossiyanavsegda.ru.

That's what I wrote about the queen of the poet Voloshin: "Flame, golden-scarlet, crimson, payday sleeps of the celestial, the walls of buildings, deploying above the clouds, in the midst of the Queen of the Heavenly in a white dress, and at the bottom of a latitive cloudy day and student waters of the everyday river life. Strangely affects and, perhaps, attracts in this composition, this is what, although all the elements in it, apparently, Byzantine, it is purely Buddhist, Tibetan. "

The eastern motifs of the interior noticed not only Voloshin, as a result, the temple of the Holy Spirit was never consecrated. The bell tower also did not have time to build - the first world did not give. In the temple there was a tomb of Prince Tenisheva, but in 1923 they were ruined her, the body of the prince tied to a horse and dragged in the fields (as old-timers say). In the temple, the warehouse was organized, the grains were referred to the trucks right through the windows, which caused the final and irreparable harm to the pains of the Roerich: (

"The memory of Prince Vyacheslav Nikolayevich Tenisheva. 1843-1903.".

In 1919, the princess Maria Tenisheva emigrated to France. For the last years of his life, she lived in complete porch near Paris - in the town of Vastreson. She was not April 14, 1928.

In the necrologist, the artist Ivan Bilibin wrote: "She devoted his own Russian art to his own Russian art, for which he made infinitely a lot."

Not far from the fabulous terchemka is a monument to the hostess. The princess is exactly walking on the manor paths, meeting guests.

The shopping house was destroyed by the Germans during the Great Patriotic War. What it was, you can judge the "doll house" in the apple orchard :)

And this is the same house of culture, which preserved the foundation of the houses of Tenishev. The current address: Talashkino, ul. Parkovaya, 14. Talashkino borders Flenovo, the estate was located on the territory of two settlements at once.

Flenovo has preserved two more colorful buildings: a rural-economic craft school (wooden building with columns) and a hostel for schoolchildren (a small house next to her).

By the way, on Saturday day on the territory of the museum of weddings was neuroran! I was curious, an outbound wedding ceremony on a fabulous glade in front of the Teremku costs 7,000 rubles.

All weddings were "color": yellow, turquoise and red were crowded on the paths. From the side it was not so much aesthetic as ridiculous :) "Forged chains, and we came to you!" :))

And even despite all this wedding vanity, fashionable devices, cobcoda-like limousines, the ringing of bottles and a three-letter echo, in the estate there are many corners, where "Gray Heron - in the Kamyshey", where "ate in the sky, where the best lives," Where the time stopped exactly. Beauty.

We did not suspect that herons can swing on the tops of the high trees (everything is somehow in the sky or on the water they were before).

Herl is nervous, but proud!

From the fabulous Flenovo, we went to the city of Hero Smolensk - and this is 20 kilometers of the way.

"Weekend route" was spontaneous, so the hotel booked on the eve of the evening (Bucking Foreva!) - Apartments in the very center on the street. Big Soviet 18/18,1500 rubles per night for two, at the disposal - kitchen with microwave, refrigerator, washing machine, dishes and everything necessary. The pedestrian street begins immediately around the corner :) Parking is free. In general, whom did not scare and interested, write in a personal - let the exact coordinates. The number is very ascetic, but the two-story :)))

Smolensk fortress in Smolensk is a monument of architecture, which in the Middle Ages served as defense structures. Currently, only half of the fortress has been preserved: most of this attraction of Smolensk during the war of 1812 was destroyed. Excursions in Smolensk almost always include visiting the fortress facilities.

History

With Ivan Grozny on the site of the fortress stood a wooden structure with an earthen shaft. The history of the Smolensk Fortress is saturated with events. The city of Smolensk was an important defensive point and was often attacked, with which the wooden fortress could not. Therefore, in 1595, a stone fortification with the towers began to build here - Smolensk fortress. Thirty thousand mercenaries were employed in the works, who worked as many as six years. As a result, the fortress was eighteen meters high, the wall thickness reached six meters. 38 towers were built - mostly they had three tiers of different heights - from twenty to thirty meters.

Towers

The towers of the Smolensk fortress were performed at once several functions. They could be observed, shelling, protect the gate, troops were covered here. Nine designs had a gate. The main tower - Frolovskaya - was driving, through it it was possible to get into the capital. All other towers were made easier: 13 buildings - a completely deaf, rectangular shape, 7 - sixteenth, 9 - round.

Pyatnitsky Tower

In the Middle Ages, travel to Smolensk opened through this tower. But in 1812 she was destroyed by the Army of Napoleon. Then the Church of St. Tikhon Zadonsky was built in her place. Today, the Pyatnitsky Tower is renovated and enlarged, the Museum of "Russian Vodka" is open here, where you can taste the products of the liquor-vodka plant.

Thunder Tower

It is considered the most beautiful of all the towers of the fortress in Smolensk and has other names - Topinskaya, Round, Tupinskaya. The thunder tower was renovated the very first and restored in his original form. Inside, you can see a unique interior, climb the steep stairs and enjoy the beauty of the wooden dome.

On the second tier tier, an exposition is arranged, telling about the construction and defense of the fortress. Here is the layout of the initial appearance of the structure with all towers, gates and braces.

On the third tier of the Thunder Tower - the exhibition "Grunwald battle, 600 years later." Among the exhibits presented the reconstruction of weapons and armor soldiers of the Smolensky Principality. On the fourth tier - an observation deck where various concerts are held.

The value of the Smolensk Fortress

During the Russian-Polish war in the eighteenth century, the Smolensk fortress was often attacked, in which four towers were destroyed before the foundation, but at the same time no one could take it immediately from the battle. The enemies had to attack the structure again and again.

One of the SPEAs of the Smolensk fortress lasted for more than three years. In 1786, artillerymen and their tools were distributed to other fortifications. But in an attempt to capture the city of Napoleon again stormed the fortress and her gate. The walls were withstanding a two-day assault on the defense of Smolensk and the shelling of the French army, and during her retreat Napoleon ordered to mince all the towers, as a result of which nine of them were completely destroyed.

However, the fortress wall Smolensk was destroyed not only as a result of wars. In the twenties of the nineteenth century, her walls were understood, and the brick was going on the restoration of buildings destroyed during hostilities.

Smolensk fortress today

To date, the overall length of the Smolensk fortress wall is 3.5 kilometers, it includes nine wall fragments and eighteen towers. The largest sections of the wall of a half-kilometer is located in the eastern part of Smolensk. Tourists love this fortress very much and regularly come here, appreciate this beautiful and interesting place Smolensk.

The main historical monument is a museum, a place for meetings and a favorite park warehouse. A walk through the fortress will be remembered for a long time, because from here you can look at the old city and admire the Dnieper. Currently, a film about the Smolensk Fortress – "Bastions of Russia".

How to get

Address of Smolensk Fortress - Smolensk, ul. Big Soviet, 11, Smolensk State Reserve Museum. Get to her very simple. From the railway station - by bus number 2 and 10, stop the street Trukhechevsky or tram number 6, 7 - enter the pl. Smirnova. The expositions of the fortress can be studied from Monday to Friday from 9.00 to 18.00.

I sought too long to visit this city, that is, my reasons and, naturally, was very afraid of disappointment.
And in vain worried, Smolensk surpassed all my expectations, he turned out to be a city of stunning beauty, with a slightly noticeable taste of provinciality, where the spirit of history has not yet completely dissolved among the upcoming modern technologies.
1.

Despite the sea of \u200b\u200bpositive, received during the trip, I definitely postponed my story about Smolensk for a long time, because, I put my hand on my heart, did not know where to start and how to finish.
It happens when they simply overstat a huge number of different impressions.

2.

Being behind the wheel, in an unfamiliar city it is difficult to navigate in the road atmosphere, while the time for the sides.
But before the city center we got surprisingly easy and simple. There was no loop for a long time, the road herself brought us to the Holy Assumption Cathedral.
3.

The cathedral is located in the central part of the historic city on a high hill, from this point, most of the rearprovsky Smolensk are perfectly visible. And if you consider that the height of the cathedral itself is about 70 meters, you can imagine what kinds of city open from its upper tiers.
4.

The cathedral is a whole complex with an almost millennial history. In its inner courtyards, you can wander a long time, admiring the church architecture, admiring the majestic species of the cathedral itself.
5.

On the way here, we drove past one of the plots, which remained from powerful defensive structures. The remains of the fortress wall as it were to cut the city blocks on "to" and "after". The spectacle is unusual and gorgeous. One of these preserved fragments is right at the foot of the hill where the Cathedral is built. Then the wall stretches along the shore of the Dnieper, and our acquaintance with the city will start from a small elegant church with a blue dome. This is the church of the Smolensk icon of the Mother of God. Nowadays, the Orthodox gymnasium is located here. Star Dome Magically attracts his eyes, he is so manitis to come closer.
6.

Upon closer examination, we see that the church seemed to be thrown into the fortress wall and not surprisingly, because once a long time ago instead of the temple there was one of the towers of the Smolensk Kremlin. The tower suffered greatly during the siege by Poles in 1611, and after that, on her place, a wooden one was built first, and then the stone church of Smolensk Mother of God.
7.

Following your long-standing tradition to explore new places, avoiding the usual tourist routes and looks into different hidden eyes from an unknown eye, we decided to get around the wall from the opposite side.
Bypassing the monument to Kutuzov, reached the bridge, connecting the right bank and left bank of Smolensk, loved by urban species and found themselves on the site between the wall and the shore.
The embankment this place can only be called conditionally, rather this is the usual pedestrian walkway, which arose as if by itself and stretches along the overgrown with a wild shrub of an underdeveloped coastal strip.
The better, the atmosphere of this place is quite suitable for me, she is wild and primitive (this is my view from a romantic point of view).
If we wanted to evaluate this territory more objectively, then, unfortunately, it is worth recognizing - an invaluable monument of history and architecture is dying and destroyed and destroyed, there is a sad launch and mismanagement around.
8.

"A rare bird will take up to the middle of the Dnieper ...", in this case, the classic described completely different places that are significantly south. Where Smolensk was built, even a grasshopper would be able to dive up to the middle of the Dnieper.
Because of the dusty bushes, there are views on the opposite shore from time to time, he is so close, which seems like to file with his hand before him.
Smolensk arose in the upper reaches of the Dnieper, so the river in this place is shallow and narrow.
A few more churches are perfectly visible on the other shore. Here you can admire the ruins of the old stone bridge, which led once to the Dnieper gate.
Dnipro Gate, this is the same Church of Smolensk Mother of God.
9.

With an inside, the city looks somewhat different than from the street. Here, the usual gloss and gloss are inferior to the place of road dust, cracked asphalt, shocking plaster and choking from the ancient brick walls. Such a classic economic courtyard with a sparkling luxury and lights of a prestigious institution.
10.

One of the towers glanced, almost crawled in half and was about to collapse, builders somehow fantastically try to strengthen it. It looks all this is not quite reliably, more like the falling theatrical scenery, and the viewer, by and large, it does not care what is being done behind the scenes.
11.

From the side of the city, no backup is visible, and guests of the city are unlikely, admiring this monument to the old days, fully realize how old and the ancient facilities in front of them. From the former power blows Starikovsky Dryingness.
Most of all I was struck by the strange and even negligence attitude of the city authorities to the priceless attractions.
12.

In the wall here and there are huge breaks, where there is free access for each willing, at best for us, at worst - for vandals and other unclean.
As it seemed to me, the different Swalle looks here much more often than driving yawats. Last is simply afraid to climb where the danger at every step, you never know what you can be involved in one of the dark corridors.
13.

It is interesting and very dangerous here. You can wander inside the real fortress wall. Similar libations in many cities have long been banned.
A close acquaintance with historical wickers is either not available, or for the entrance will have to fork. Step right-left punishable by law. It is believed that the Smolensk fortress wall in importance and gradation is not inferior to Chinese.
Personally, I did not know in China, so I can't say anything about this. But in my opinion, this is indeed a unique structure.
14.

The breaks are not protected by anyone, the corridors stretch somewhere in the distance and in the twilight. In the depths of the dungeons, a lot of secrets and unknown, most importantly, in search of ancient artifacts, do not pursue something modern and bad smelling. Best of all at the time of such a walk to have a strong hard hat on the head and flashlight, you never know what.
15.

In ancient times, under each tower, a whole system of underground strokes was created, undoubtedly, there are still hidden rooms, and the exciped treasures are waiting for their openers, but we have timed time, and we decided to get out to go outside to continue further walk along the walls in the fresh air.
16.

The next tower and a small fragment of the walls are immelled in the thickets of the virgin grapes. The Kostrevsky tower was in the territory of the city. Probably, she liked so faced public utilities due to the fact that their forms are very similar to the water tower. Will not be surprised if she is her and is.
Then the wall temporarily breaks down, and then we see her continuation in a couple of hundred meters, but already on the steep slope of a huge hill. Continuing the path of one of the narrow alley, we climb the mountain, trying not to lose the wall out of the view.
17.

I catch myself thinking, Smolensk becomes surprisingly similar to my native Vyatka of the past years, when she was still a dotted building.
We are surrounded by a huge array of the private sector. It is difficult to believe that we are still in the very center of a big city.
From the alley strongly smelled to the public toilet, see, on this segment of one of the tourist routes, there is a certain point of no return when there is nowhere to go, and I really want to (another claim to the city administration).
18.

The language does not turn to say that in the yard of the 21st century. Similarly, Smolensk and two hundred years ago and three hundred.
19.

Finally, our difficult and thorny path over a narrow and winding sidewalk ended, and the ancient urban fortifications again appeared before us.
Around no modern paving and asphalt, only trees, grass and drowning sand paths.
Once again I completely fall out of our time.
20.

Another temporary portal and window in the past.
Behind the wall reigns a completely different life, where the time as if stopped.
21.

Occasionally in the walls there are mysterious passages, sometimes these are windows, through some of them you can climb inside, sometimes it is whole gate.
22.

It is quite dangerous under such an opening, but judging from everything, the folk trail will not overgrow. This place is popular.
23.

Before us tower Eagle. In her forms, in fact, there is something orlyin, thanks to two sections of the walls that converge near the tower like prostrate wings, although in the previous times the tower was called Gorodetka. And the first and second names occurred from the extension and ancient settlement on this place.
As we see, in the walls near the tower full of inputs and exits.
24.

We used one of the Lases and we.
25.

We fell into a real medieval labyrinth.
Climbing on the shied steep steps, ahead of the dead end.
26.

Another move. Climbing somewhere upstairs in the direction of sunlight.
27.

We are on the top tier of the fortress wall. We are experiencing unforgettable emotions. There is no soul around the walls are absolutely deserted.
Such an adventure and completely free!
28.

The height is impressive, approach the edge, which is not fenced, is scary and dangerous. One awkward movement and will have to repeat the entire path again, if, of course, a desire will remain.
29.

Another staircase.
We overcome the next span, are squeezed into a narrow doorway, and we are on the top of the Eagle Tower, that very, on which they recently looked at the bottom.
30.

In the middle of the center, the huge Black Wpadina gaps, similar to Zhero Volcano. The hole is partially sprinkled by the residues of the burnt wooden design. Does not leave the feeling of the unreality of what is happening, as if we fell out for several centuries ago and at the moment we are witnessing the consequences of some grandiose battle. We are surrounded by powerful fortress teeth with narrow braces. To see the foot of the towers, you have to literally bounce and pull up.
31.

From the ground, these powerful fortifications look much miniature, and the stone monolith surrounds you upstairs. For this hard, you feel in complete safety, the fortress seems absolutely impregnable.
32.

It is difficult to believe it, but the Smolensk Kremlin was still captured by the enemy troops, and did not move from hand to hand.
33.

The top view fascinates, all Smolensk, as on the palm. The city is similar to one big blooming garden.
34.

The time of our walk was suitable for the end, and it was possible to explore the wall forever. I didn't want to leave from here, but I had to go back. Without how long thinking, went in the direction of the nearest domes.
35.

It turned out that the dome belongs to the two-storey stone cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord. The temple belongs to the Transfiguration Monastery. Near the cozy Square with the monument to St. Abraham Smolensky.
36.

As we did not hurry, but I had to admit that on the inspection of the other fragments of the wall we simply do not have enough time, so they decided to move to the place of meeting an arbitrary route, wondering in Smolensk streets.
37.

Finding the impressive circle, we were again on one of the central streets of the city.
38.

Street, smoothly bending, rolled down the mountain, opening all new and new interesting perspectives. Elegant vintage mansions, beautiful buildings appear before your eyes, and immediately disappear by turning, freeing the place for the following.
39.

At such moments, you begin to clearly understand that the streets should not be direct in any way. All the beauty of the urban environment and consists in this smooth beznutness of lines.
40.

Before us is another monastery - Trinity.
41.

Through the open gate, we look into the territory, there are restoration work.
42.

A little bit and across the road is lonely the bell tower, which, if I'm not mistaken, is as part of the Trinity Women's Monastery. Why she turned out to be separated from the monastery about this story silent. At least I did not find the answer to this question on the Internet.
43.

In Smolensk, there are a lot of churches and temples. Wherever you look, everywhere you can see a gilded poppy or dome. In order to inspect at least part of the on-site opportunities, not one day.
44.

In our case, there were only a few hours, and this time was filled, perhaps, the most vivid impressions of the whole of our journey.
45.

Finally, our circle closed, and we were again near the remnants of the city wall and the monument to Kutuzov. A huge part of an old city, unfortunately, remained behind the scenes, and let this circumstance be a reason for us to return here again.

As a split alternate apple, Lies Smolensk on both sides of the Dnieper. From one of his hills near the Assumption Cathedral, the preserved part of the urban fortress is well visible, picturesquely passing along the high ridges of ravines and a smooth ribbon running along the Dnieper.

Through the Dnieper Gate of the city in 1595 he drove into Smolensk sovereigns Master Fedor Kon. According to him, the hands of thousands of builders were erected a fortress wall 6 km long 380 m with 38 towers in just a few years. No one city of Russia knew such a scope of construction work. Even now, the completely serf wall is very impressive. Truly, she was done "with great junction"

The current fortress condition can not give a complete presentation about it. Only individual sections and 17 towers are preserved: Pyatnitsky, Volkova (arrow), Kostrevskaya (red), Vezelukha, Pozdnyakova, Eagle, Avraamiyevskaya, Caltar (Beluha), Voronina, Dolmachevskaya (Shemebel), Zimbulka, Nikolskaya (Elenevskaya), Mahova, Donets, Thunder, Bubley and Kopytenskaya.

In 1692, Moscow Master Gur Vakhromyev arrived in Smolensk specifically for the restoration of the wall. In 1698, Peter I, arriving in the city, drew attention to it and commanded to strengthen its restoration. When the wall, moved to the domestic war of the Patriotic War of 1812, dilapidated, on the report on her state Alexander I wrote: "It would be preferably more attentive cooling of the ancient monuments that had a special historical meaning of the Smolensk wall." Today it is listed in the register of historical and architectural monuments.

Estimated at the difficult moment of the history of Russia, the Smolensk Kremlin was evidence of the firm will of the people to the defense of the Fatherland. Arriving for his construction of the master left a bright mark in the development of artistic and domestic crafts of the city. Later, the wall served as a monument, which inspired many artists to create paintings and engravings, starting with the most discerning Keller engraving 1610, which was only the fruit of fiction, and ending with Etudes N. K. Roerich and the realistic picture of 1896. Work N. A. Andreeva . Many of these sketches left a very convincing image of the see of the Kremlin.

The construction of the Kremlin was attracted by a huge number of rapid people. For several years, this army of suppliers and builders worked. First of all, in the construction of the wall, the Smolyan themselves participated. A royal decree was also published on sending people from other cities. According to another decree, it was prohibited under the fear of the death penalty on the Russia of any construction work from stone during the construction of the Smolensk Kremlin, because its wall was built by "all cities of the Moscow state". Directly on the construction of the wall worked 6 thousand people.

Because of the difficult working conditions in 1599, a riot broke out at the construction site. Adverse weather conditions were added: cold rains, early frost, hunger, illness. In 1600, the masonry of the walls in the eastern part was even deep in the fall, which was not previously done.

Outside, a smooth wall was separated from the base with a white-chain roller. In the minor staged a pipe for water drain, the holes were embroidered with lattices. On the back of the wall decorated with arches, both deaf and battle chambers. The arched holes of the booming of the plantar battle from the outside are decorated with a frame. The second tier of the battle is located in the center. Here the frames have triangular frontons. The top platform reaches in width to 4.5 meters. The elongated teeth are completed with a swallow tail, but there are also smooth teeth.

Upon joining the throne, Boris Godunov strengthened attention to Smolensk and sent 200 thousand rubles in 1600, increased the fee of the workers, all those wishing to the construction site. This allowed us to successfully finish the wall in 1602, which turned out to be extremely timely, because already in the fall of 1609. Sigismund III with a 22-thousandth army (Poles, Hungarian hired infantry, Cossacks) stood under the city, which defended about 5 thousand people at 200 guns. They lasted 20 months!

The defense was headed by Smolensky Voivod M. B. Shein. From 1610, Smolyan began to die from hunger and zing. Dried ammunition. The nobles often violated the orders of Shein on the turnout on the guard service, hiring instead of artisans or peasants. Began the case of livestock, lacked firewood and water, the use of streams inside the city led to massives. The sucked jungle in raw cold dugouts. In winter, 1609-1610. 40 people were buried daily, in the spring of 1610 - already up to 150. By the summer, the townspeople ate all the grass. Meanwhile, the monks drove the moonshine from bread reserves and at the best price sold it to defenders of the fortress. Nevertheless, for any new Sigismund offers, the townspeople responded with refusal. "To speak in vain with this bearish people," the king complained.

In 1610, Moscow Semiboyarschina sent an embassy to Smolensk demanding to Smolyan, to swear to the Polish Kingdom Vladislav and pass the city. But Smolensk did not open his goal to the enemy and prepared for the second winter defense. In Moscow, even a noticeable letter appeared on behalf of Smolyan with a call to the fight. Only 3 (13) June 1611 took place the last, fifth storm of the wall. He was conducted from three sides: at the royal opening, Pyatnitsky and the Crown Gate. Shein fought at the Kolomna Tower, where he was captured by severely edged. Smolyan beat for a long time with the interventions on the walls of the Kremlin and on the streets, then the survivors blown up themselves in the Assumption Cathedral. When Smolensk fell, on the spot where the troops of Sigismund broke into the city, they were built by an earthy citadel, called royal.

The first attempt to return Smolensk Russia was undertaken in 1613 by Prince A. M. Cherkasy, and the decisive battle took place during the Russian-Polish war 1632 - 1634, when the army headed with the same Sheine moved to Smolensk. His siege unfolded. Then the Polish army of Vladislav IV surrounded and blocked Syin's squads. He was forced to sign the capitulation, for which he was executed later as a traitor. Smolensk was released during the next Russian-Polish war in 1654, when after the desperate on the courage of the assault on September 23, the city was commissioned by the invaders "in the service of King Moskovsky."

But the Kremlin slowly died. To the Patriotic War of 1812, eight of his towers were lost. True, the walls were still suitable for defense, which was used by the Russian army. M. B. Barclay de Tolly called then Smolyan by brave people, solid in faith. And the French by entering the city, found there "only swamp water, hunger and bivouuck on ashes".

In the first months of the Great Patriotic War, the ancient fortress witnessed a grand smolensky defensive battle. The city of the 16th Army of General M. F. Lukina, 19th I. S. Koneva and the 20th P. A. Kurochina were defeated. In the days of the occupation, the fascists removed the roof from 9 towers, the Dnieper gates burned out, disassembled the interhesive overlaps in the puffs, in the Gurkin Tower there were an explosives warehouse, a number of breaks were carried out in the wall. Smolensk Our troops were released on September 25, 1943. Smolyan, restoring the city. Partly restored and its walls. The walls of the Smolensk Kremlin are the graves of Soviet soldiers and the eternal flame burns.

Unfortunately, today the Smolensk Kremlin is in a rather dilapidated state. Nevertheless, the painting of the "Allian Rus Necklaces" location, thoughtfulness and artistic selegum of all decorative elements, along with the functional perfection of this powerful defensive structure, make the Smolensk fortress by a unique monument of Russian architecture of the 19th - XVII centuries.