Causes of the tragedy on the Pamir 1974. The death of climbers Group Elvira Shatayeva

Mountaineering, no matter how cool, is a male sport, but many women, with excitement to enter this game, often forget that not only the preparation and attitudes are played here, but also psychological sustainability. In the history that we remember today, all participants have easily reached the goal, but back nobody returned.

The tragic death of the Igor Dyatlov group is one of the most famous in the history of Soviet mountaineering. But far from the only one. On August 8, 1974, all the world's radio stations reported a terrible message: at the peak of Lenin, that at the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, at an altitude of more than seven thousand meters, eight climbers from the USSR were killed. Young, sports, active ruined the mother-nature and, according to some, women's pride.

Even in the most terrible dream, do not imagine what exactly occurred 44 years ago. What is it like a few days to be on a crowded altitude, in conditions of lack of oxygen and barely portable cold when the pressure is more than two times higher than the norm? And the most frightening is to hear the voice of the voice of my colleagues in the tube and barely moved the lips to tell them that all members of your team died, and you will die from the minute for a minute ...

Feminist mountainism

The initiator of this campaign was Elvira Shatayev - a graduate of the Moscow Art School, Komsomol, an athlete, beauty. Her passionate climbing began with hobbies by man - the instructor Vladimir Shatayev. The girl fell in love with him, and with him and in the mountains.

The couples conquered all possible vertices located on the territory of the Soviet Union (until the 1990s, only units were traveled abroad). Elvira rose to the mountains of tens of times, but always accompanied by men. Somehow she had an idea to organize a maiden team to prove to others (and himself) that women had independence, determination, excerpt and other important qualities necessary in extreme conditions. Half-and-half-and-dryly surrounding said that Shataeva conceived to defend "feminist mountaineering".

"I think we will not bring. The aunts are going to good, "said Elvira in a letter, which sent his girlfriend shortly before the start of the expedition. She invited experienced athletes in it - Ilsiyar Muhamedov, Nina Vasilyev, Valentina Fateev, Irina Favimtsev, Galina Transzyu, Tatiana Bardashev, Lyudmila Manchana. The older at that time was 36 years old.

No matter what a recklessness from the leader of the speech group and did not go. Lenin's peak, despite the height of 7,134 meters, is not considered a climbers with a technically complex route. To climb, you do not need to climb on the sheer rocks. At this climb, endurance and psychological stability are checked.

On August 1, 1974, the Shatayeva group started and after a few days planned to return to the base. It remained smoothly to live ... But no one could think about it.

"For about an hour before the commerce comes. All is well, the weather is good, the breeze is noble. Path simple. Wellness in all excellent. So far, everything is so good that they are even disappointed in the route ... "- said Shatalev.

August 5 at 17:00 Peak Lenin was conquered. The base answered congratulations and wished a successful descent. There were problems that no one was waiting for.

Painful death

During the descent, a hurricane hit the group - in the most encyclopedic understanding of this word. Experts described it like this: "The one that comes down and breaks down the roofs, breaks the walls, robby the wire, crops the trees, blows the mast ... Upstairs, much fierce. Here he is fresh, not cultivated by the ridges. And the man who fell into it is like midges, tightened by a vacuum cleaner, is also helpless. And does not understand what is happening. "

Because of the raging bad weather, the woman decided to wait at the top and broke the tent. The first night was waiting that the hurricane would swell, but the miracle did not happen, and they began the descent.

At first, the participants of the expedition were full of optimism (experienced climbers are not a strong wind not to scare!), But later there was a disturbing notch in their reports. Nerves began to pass. People at the bottom also did not find themselves places - first they learned about the ailment of one of the girls, then the fact that the wind was taken by the tent and things (the wonder could be saved), after - about the first deaths.

At the same time, at least seven groups were at the top of the top: four Soviet, Swiss, American and Japanese. Strange and incomprehensible is that neither one of them did not ask for help. One of the teams even headed towards the victims, but they assured that everything is fine with them. Still wanted to prove women's independence? ..

And here's another fact: during the connection with the base of Shataev, he asked to invite the doctor to the dilution - it turned out that one of the girls was already River for the third day. Medic Anatoly Lobusev declared them a reprimand for self-reading and ordered immediately descending.

A day later, Shataeva reported on the death of the pet, Vasilyeva and Fateeva, as well as about strong frostbite among the other participants of the group.

The cold fastened them so much that they could not do not pull out the cave to hide in it, but even move.

The last message passed on August 7 at 21:12, horrified with his doom: "We have two. After fifteen-twenty minutes, no one will be alive. " Then cry and words that are difficult to disassemble, "forgive" or "sorry."

Last date

On the morning of August 8, a group of men headed by Vladimir Shatayev, an Elvira, headed the tragedy site. As an experienced climber, he understood that they were waiting. But as a loving spouse may have hoped for a miracle.

According to the rules, found bodies are obliged to fix their location. This was engaged in Vladimir, tactfully left climbers alone with frozen to death by his wife.

It is difficult to read his report - combs to the throat: "Elvira Shataleva ... legs to the south. Head in the hood. Anraca blue, powder. Pants-golf black, on the legs "" Cats "" ( metal nozzles for shoes for movement in the snow and ice, - approx. website). There are no glasses. Four meters there was a rubber band from them ... In the pockets of the carbine and various ladies' little things - a manicure leg, nail tweeters, a round mirror - broken. "

Strong, brave, hardy conquerors of the mountains, which were at the place of the tragedy, recalled her for a long time. According to one of the members of the rescue group, hearing hearing hallucinations were persecuted: "We heard from the outside of a voice, similar to the wicked cries of the girl. But every time you went out of the tent, they understood that it was only a stretch stretch under the weight of the snow. "

Questions more than answers

"The main cause of the death of the group was extremely complex, suddenly emerged meteo conditions, a hurricane wind with snow, a sharp decrease in temperature and atmospheric pressure, no visibility" - this was the conclusion of specialists.

An experienced climbing Nina Lugovskaya 21 years after the tragedy stated: "those women lost their will, that's all. And there is no will - there is no understanding of what should be struggling for their lives. "

Those who wanted to give this story of mystery and mystery, focused on tents found by their strengths found by their strength, but torn in shreds, and noted that only a person in the seizure of hysteria could tear them. The words of the famous Skalolaza Georgy Korpanova and the words of the famous clollalaise: "Everyone is lying about everything. There was not the case, but I will not tell you anything. "

We still tend to believe that the cause of the tragedy was bad weather. And also, that women, no matter how strong they are, without men can not do. Especially when those are near and are ready to help.

45 years old separate us from the grand tragedy at the peak of Lenin (7134 m) with the female group Elvira Shatayeva - the initiator of ascent.
They dreamed of passing the traverse of the array with the descent necessarily not along the way of the rise - for the first time in the world at such a height of a large female group.
Safely rose to the top on August 5 to 17:00, put the tents, hoping to continue the day the next day, but with the never-began in the morning, it was already touched
August 6, a disease was manifested by two participants. With a forced and messy descent, all 8 women died at an altitude of about 7000 m.
It all ended by 21:00 on August 7, 1974.

I took up this story not immediately. He knew for a long time, reflected for a long time, wrote difficult. The drama that occurred on the Pamir was received at one time the greatest world press. Soviet filmmakers removed the tragic-courageous documentary "Buryam and winds in advance". The film was awarded a special prize at the International Festival of Sports Films in Cortina-d'Ampezzo. In the Moscow Publishing House "Young Guard" published a book "Category of difficulty". One of her chapters was also dedicated to the Pamir event. Why am I going back to him again.

On the same things we look different. In addition, before those who write and removes hot pursuit, a writer later has its advantage - it gives him time. It allows you to approach the event otherwise, with other measurements. In this case, time allowed us to see the event not only with the sports and technical, described before me, but also with a wider - moral, human.

Everything happens in life - including tragedies. Life is more complicated, there are incredible situations - not only in the mountains. Fold on urban street, in the office, train, plane, in their own apartment. Everywhere! What at the same time, suffering defeat, remain a person? How, winning, to remain a person? How, despite the speeds, difficulties, contradictions and personal cataclysms, keep in themselves, without which the spirit of man is an empty sound? Without which the heart is a pump for pumping blood?

Shock

State coach of the USSR Sports Committee Vladimir Shatayev returned to Moscow at that moment of his life when all his works - official, sports and personal - were in the best, one can say, ideal form. Such periods in the life of a person are rare, and many people are afraid of them like fire.

Shatayev returned to Moscow, and almost simultaneously with his arrival at the sports office came a telegram from the international alpalage "Pamir". The telegram reported on the tragic death of the Swiss climbing Eva Issenshmidt.

In the evening of the same day, Shataev and Deputy Chairman of the Sports Committee flew to the Pamir, in Osh - from where Shataev came back.

Of the additional posts, they already knew: the Swiss died as a result of extreme meteo conditions that were preserved in the area of \u200b\u200bLenin's peak. Recently, John Ullin from the US, now she is. Summer earthquakes and unprecedented snowfalls collected a duty.

Shatayev thought about the climber from Switzerland, but did not forget about those who were in the same area. About the Soviet women's team. A week ago, for the first time in the history of the mountaineering, the group of women went to conquer the third top of the top of the Soviet Union - the peak of Lenin. The team was accompanied by the best climbers of the country. Over the pool of Edelweissi soundfpultivated words sounded: "You leave for a peak without men, but we are always with you."

The route and the nature of the climb of the Swiss and the Soviet team were different. But the time is one.

The news about the misfortune aggravated the thoughts and feelings of Shatale. Now, on the plane, he worried not only as an official person - Head of the Department of Mountaineering Sports Committee of the USSR.

It goes by itself.

He worried about both climber, Snow Bars: Extreme Conditions, which were stated in messages, Shatayev experienced for himself more than once. Knew what it was.

Finally, there was another reason for excitement - special: the female team was led by one of the strongest climbers of the country - Elvira Shatayev, his wife.

He did not doubt: the Elvira team will conquer the top - it always happened. But the shower was restless.

The plane landed at night. They were met by workers of the local sports base. The kind of people appeared to Shatayev too depressed. Of course, the death of the Swiss - the case is awesome, but it was terribly terribly looking.

As soon as the car drove away from the airport, one of them said:

There was a big misfortune;

Yes, "agreed Shatayev," Eve was an excellent climbing.

I am not about her, "the voice of the cabin said in the twilight, - an hour ago, we were told that the team of Elvira Shatayeva died. Together with her.

Radiocommunication with Alpalage "Pamir" confirmed the news. Shatayev stood next to the operator and heard all the conversations. "They just flew," the operator shouted. "Now go to you, Shatayev already knows."

"Knows," - repeated Shataev, as if it was not about him.

The population of the acute-angled tent of the international alpalage was in Touré. Only bright flags of the countries participating in the climbing still fun in a strong wind - except for Swiss, the rest did not have time to shine.

What happened to the team? They knew only in general terms. The girls rose to Lenin's peak - the goal was thus achieved. The camp congratulated them, handed over good wishes and tips on the descent. Tips, however, were not useful: almost immediately after communication, a hurricane hit the mountains. He found the team at the top of the top. Shatayev said: visibility worsens, the temperature drops, the wind increases. Passenger plane, flewing at this time over the Pamir, handed over to the request of the camp: Hurricane covered the whole area.

Did not excluded the earthquake - the third for this month.

The girls kept, as they could. The wind in the shreds ruined their chopper tents, charged the primus, warm clothes. They fought for life courageously and desperately. Radio communication with Elvira Shatayeva was constant - to the end. Prior to the words: "We are dying ... two remaining ... Forgive, the latter dies."

After the first distress signal, Chelyabinsk and Novosibirsk climbers were sent. The best English and French athletes came from the international camp. I managed to contact the Japanese - those were at the top. The Japanese have established a connection with the Americans - they were separated by 300- 400 meters of height. Everyone came to the help of girls. But the hurricane blocked the path. Maggred and roaring wind did not allow to get through to the dying.

Late in the evening, the base handed over to one of the rescue groups: "The tragedy upstairs ends."

And it ended.

The first to discover dead after Hurricane was six Japanese and three American climbers. The Japanese reported: "We see them. What should we do?". The base answered: "Make a map."

While the Japanese sketched the place of drama, the Americans, balancing on the front of the "cats", with the help of IV rhe, who grabbed with them to marking the route, noted the location of the tel.

"When we then returned to the tent," said one of them later, "we had auditory hallucinations. Jack and I heard outside the voice, like a melting voice of a girl. But every time we left the tent to see, heard only the creak of stretch marks under the weight of the snow. "

The sketch scheme passed by the Japanese did not clarify the essence of the drama. In addition, the expense of the dead - according to the Japanese data - did not coincide with the number of team. One of the two disappeared. Demolished into the abyss? Alive and waiting for help? And which of them?

Shatayev took himself in hand. He said: "I have to climb to the top. I will collect guys, and we will rise to the top. "

Acclimatization of Shatale was still preserved - he was at the peak a week ago. The route of the girls was known for him. Only he knew each in his face. All were "for". But many opposed - including such authority as Anufrikov. "It is impossible to foresee," he said, "as Shatayev, will lead herself at the height. Especially on the site of the drama. "

The argument is serious: the shock of Shatayev was obvious. And understandable. The question decided abalaks: "Shatayev must go." Telegram left to Moscow. Waiting for the response of the Chairman of the USSR Sport Committee did not: the camp swore work. Almost five from class climbers remained. All from Chelyabinsk. Agreed immediately.

4000 meters became bad with Tomplel. Accompanied by Tonkov, it was sent down. The climb continued three. They walked with a set of height of 1,100 meters per day. The snow was unprecedented. Alpine meadows were covered with a meter layer. The shepherds distilled the herd of sheep down, to the Alpine Valley, but she was covered with snow. Pamir has long been not so white.

For the second time in two weeks, Shatayev rose to the seven thousandths. But what different these climbing! It remains quite a bit to the Zalai Range. Shatayev said: "I will go first." Davydenko and Sokolov did not argue - agreed. He went first. His thoughts were confused and sniffing. "How did it happen?" - That's what did not come out of the head. When the radio was revived, he stunned hard. It seemed: the base reports - the girls were found, they are alive. Or - alive!

The sports class Elvira was extremely high. In a short time, she, essentially, began to be closed with such recognized masters as Agranovskaya, Nononova, Rozhalskaya, Cherezov. She marked the beginning of a collective, independent female mountaineering in the country and the world. She conquered the peak of communism. Even before that, their team climbed the peak Eugene Korzhevskaya - the whole four was awarded medals "for outstanding sports achievements." She was a master of sports. Photos of yesterday's modest and diligent artist on a children's toy were blocked on the pages of the Soviet and foreign sports press. Before climbing the peak of Lenin, millions of television viewers saw a blue-eyed girl with the hair of the colors of Augustus rye in the TV program "Traveler Club". Answering Yuri Senkevich's questions, she reflected on the future of female mountaineering. He spoke about a pull to the mountains, laughed and happy.

Snow reached the belt. Shatayev moved everything slower. He had to take care of the workshop of the trail. Sokolov and Davydenko walked silently. Their hoods were thrown on the eyes. Torture became unbearable with light. The sun rays were reflected from the snow and melted in their own shine. In addition, torture continued with hope.

They walked. The step of man, of course, is small, but he takes away from the threshold. Previously, only men. Now women. What did they do here in these dead rocky mountains? No answer. What were you looking for under this silent shiny sky? No answer. What happens to the beauty of the mountains when a person breaks up with life? No answer. What remains from the Great Dream of the Alpinist?

A fixed body on a hard cold french - that's the answer. Other sentiments are possible only on other days.

When the comb seemed, they understood - already there.

In this case he dragged her, Shatayev. He was the first to show the mountains: these were really other days, other times! And who dragged him? Sneakeless occupation - scroll back life situations. And yet: if they were not met ... If he did not like it ... If he didn't like her ... If he had not taken each other's lifestyle ... if! If this was nothing, there would be no what was now. And he would not drag the belt in the snow to the place where everything ended.

He was turned on the word "hope" - so it was hopeless. But hope tormented the heart.

At the thirty-eight years, the Alpanist Shatayev knew well what the ridges and vertices were separated. But those that share human states turned out to be even irresistible. Yesterday you were happy - today is killed by grief. Yesterday, your confidence did not know the borders - the height of the giant dynasty! - Today you are helpless, like everyone else. And these yesterday, today, tomorrow? What is it, if not convention? This is what the boundaries do not know - not that the abuse. Yesterday, fifteen years ago, they saw each other for the first time. Yesterday, a week ago, they said to each other: "See you in Moscow!". Past and present are only different areas of one fast river.

Grimaces of Fate: Elya was at home, in Moscow, when telegram came from the Caucasus: "Shatayev died." He really fell under the collapse - but alive. Black day - until the clarification of the truth - she lived with this news. And here is a complete turn.

Let's follow the third day of climbing. Shatayev torn his eyes from heavy wobble shoes. I understood my head. A picture has opened before him, forget that never will be possible: under the shining blue sky, there are several drops on a huge snow-covered slope - one above the other. All team.

Above white space, the bronze vertex rummaged. There was nothing further.

The first was Elvira - he recognized her. She lay on his back, face in the sky, stretching into String - so waiting for the award in the ranks there is a soldier.

He crossed his leg. Wild thought came to his head: as it would draw this picture she herself - she loved her watercolors with the sight of the mountains.

Came up. Has stopped. The wind missed in the Yves Prutik, left by the Americans.

Stick in the snow ice ax. He took the handle. Well, they are again near - he and she. But he knew only about the distance that he knew them.

Sokolov and Davydenko did not interfere. The time of honor guard was delayed, and they tried up. They passed the icing prostrate takeoff and reached a close peak. Here they read a note left by Elvira. The note discussed the happiness of victory.

Shatayev, of course, knew: irreparable, as inevitable, it is necessary to take it. I need! He pulled out a portable voice recorder hidden on the chest under the clothes, found the "Record" button and began: "Elvira Shataleva ...". He silent, scored air, continued: "Annorak of blue color ... Double vibrats ..." Cats "on the legs ... Round Mirror. Broken. "

Found everyone. The Japanese did not notice Nina Vasilyev - she lay under the remains of the tent.

Where are the saws? Here. And where are these damn shovels? Also in place: sticking out from under the backpack valves. Everything is in place.

The work was exhausting: the pressure on the top is smaller than the usual twice. The slabs from the snow were drank alternately. Shifted together. Made the first control tour. Made the second. There was no such transcendent grave at the height of seven kilometers in the world. Now was. Having finished with everything, frozen over snowy plates. In the eternal silence of the mountains of their minute, silence was unlikely to be noticeable, but they were silent.

So ended the first act of this drama. And was the second.

Reflections

The largest publications of the world told about the event on the Pamir. "Soviet sports" wrote: "We will not forget our brave girls. Their names will forever be listed in the chronicle of the Soviet and world mountaineering ... like others, strong spirits, they gave their lives in the dispute with the mountain giants of the planet. "

Shatayev returned to Moscow. The load of condolences collapsed on him. Telegrams from Kiev, Alma-Ata, London, Prague, Dushanbe, Vienna, Milan, Denver, Mexico City, Engelberg discarded him back, in a near yesterday's past, and he wanted to consist, to resist in the present. He did not want to go back to the happy time of his life, did not want to repeat it.

The humane tradition did not give a respite: letters went to the change of telegrams. Letters went, of course, all - and relatives of girls, friends, and to the Sports Committee of the USSR. But here are only letters to Shatayev. In general, his personality is elected to me deliberately: everything came out - the severity of the loss, the gap of the happy family and climbing ligaments, difficult contradictions, the struggle, the reassembly to themselves is still. He really found himself in the center of the event. But more important is another - he had a huge service to the mountaineering: he remained faithful to the mountains, the idea of \u200b\u200bclimbing! Without this argument, a further story about the Pamir Drama would lose all meaning.

Now three letters. "Mr. Shatayev," wrote a sports coach from the United States, "this morning, on the way to school, I read the article about your wife Elvira in the New York Times. I was touched to the tears of your loss. I never worried about the death of people close to me, but for some reason I feel like your loved ones and your spouse. I do not understand my feeling, but I want you to know that I share your loss. Ed Krommer.

Shatayev tried to forget, but people seem to be considered very clearly. "During the stay of your spouse in Switzerland, the president of the climbing association Felicitas von Reznikki wrote," she conquered our hearts ... You can imagine what it means to lose such a woman. "

Well, what's in this envelope? "Dear Volodya! On August 18, a Sunday concert of bell music took place in Kaunas. Adagio S. Barber, who was dedicated to Elvira Sergeyevna, sounded in the program compiled from modern works, and adagio S. Barber. This initiation listened to 2000 people. Gederus Cupupavichus. "

Neither people nor the drama have gone to Shatalev. He was in constant voltage. He existed as it were in two places at the same time: in Moscow, among colleagues, in the world of metro, streets, noise and lights, and there - in the mountains of the Pamir, under the empty sky, under the load heavy snowy plates.

Like most people, Shatayev lived at high speeds. Sometimes - on too high. Nothing seemed to do not slow down this rapid movement. Nothing could get to stay, look around. And here is the drama. And the opening is a stop. Dramas - our last stops, our breathers. Think, overestimate.

Shatayev overestimated. I thought. The main theme of reflections were, of course, the mountains. But in the consciousness of the mountaineer Mountains never existed by themselves. They are a continuation of a person. Therefore, I was thinking about a person. The theme of people and the mountains dissected only the tragedy. But even in this case, not to the end. It is like a rantcluth - a crack, separating rocks and a glacier. Somewhere at great depths they are still together. So it was in the consciousness of Shatale.

Many years ago he, a young climber, was fighting by one case.

During the joint Soviet-English expedition, the climbing on the Pamir Peak Patriot, two Englishmen died - Neuss and Smith. "The guys are not lucky," said one of their compatriots. The climbers traded clefts to the icing edge and praying, pushed into the abyss. On this panehid ended. "

Cruelty? How to say. This was the whole philosophy. She adhered to all foreign climbers. Main Command: A man loved the mountains and died - now he is part of the mountains and belongs to them. They are forever together.

Neither then nor then Shatayev could accept this. It was not human. Later, on Alaska, when climbing Mac-Kinley, he spoke with an American climber. "It's still dead," he said, "he does not threaten him." That is why we leave our friends there. "

Shatayev confessed another philosophy. The world of the mountains frozen once on the verge of decay, deprived him of a friend, his wife. It is impossible to fix anything. Here, in the mountains, a person is not always Lord. When we go among the peaks, we are forced to admit that they were not increasing. But, having humbled with death, Shatayev could not accept the other. Human place on Earth, he told. A person belongs not to the mountains - no matter how he loved them, but people. And the place of people - on earth.

Another philosophy for Shatalev did not exist. Even if it existed for the rest of the world. "I have to return Elvira to Earth. Betray her land. This is my human debt. "

So reasoned, of course, not only he. This is what the mother of Irina Favimtseva wrote him - Anna Petrovna: "The fact that she is there, at such a height, deprives us of the slightest hope of being next to her ... Even climbers rises a bit there. And not before the bows they are where it is difficult to live an extra hour. " So reasoned many.

Stories of folk rites - thousands of years. History of mountaineering as hobbies - about two hundred. But this is the same story - the history of people.

Yes, so they reasoned everything. But to speak honestly, you must admit: everything except Shatale itself. He just did not immediately accept his decision. At some stage, doubted - wanted it, eager, but doubted. He knew: in the history of world mountaineering such operations was not conducted. He knew: to return the dead fell on Earth - a lot of emergency difficulties. After all, it was not about one person. "I will decide," he thought, "my coming friends will be solved. But we can be too small. "

It turned out: others thought about it. Relatives Ilsia Muhamedova wrote: "We care about us - whether there will be no withdrawal from the top with the danger to others, with victims? If the danger exists, then the operation cannot be justified by any human morality. The risk is allowed when salvation of alive. How to be?".

But doubts ended. Shatayev understood: Security is not only a moral problem. There are many difficulties and technical, organizational. It will take the best climbers of the country. Warranty! Ahead - before the coming season - almost a year. It is enough to develop the most careful, the most impeccable plan - also a guarantee. In essence, most of the moral problems of life are solved by this way - moving them into the practical area. Moral - not abstraction. It is an atmosphere of practice. Moral, moral problem is primarily a specific situation, the matter, and things are difficult, even the most difficult things to be blown up, as a rod. Another way is fruitless.

When the operation plan was honed, it was submitted for consideration by the USSR Sport Committee. Consideration was long. The decision is positive .. the noble nature of the stock did not cause any doubts. He was appointed official head of the expedition - Vladimir Shatayev.

The news of the expedition was separated among the climbers of the country with an incredible speed - avalanches are collapsed with such speeds from the vertices. Shatayev received over a hundred letters and telegrams. One telegram started like this: "This is the last thing we, men, we can do for them."

Everyone asked, insisted: "Include the team." Called Sports degrees - the first-turnover, master, honored master. The number of people who are ready to fulfill human duty to courageous mountaineers, stolen Shataev.

He feared: it will be in a minority. I thought: if he was supported, then only the next friends. Now we are talking about the most difficult competition.

Shatayev understood: everyone who wrote a letter took his decision alone - not at the solemn meeting. Sold in an ordinary, everyday situation. Everyone knew: they will not write about him - it is not accepted, they will not recognize about him, he will not be wondering and even climbing in the sports list. But I was ready! Here, perhaps, it is appropriate to say about climbers and mountaineering.

In 1786, Pakkar and Balm, not conducting consequences, rose to the top of Mont Blanc - the beginning! Passed century. Mountaineering entered into life as a sport as music, as a fact. Yesterday - a favorite object of attacks of pragmatists, today - their assistant. In the mountains, the power line is laid - no climbers do not do. In the mountains got into trouble a chaban - neither a helicopter, nor the all-terrain vessels try in bad weather - a climber goes to the rescue ... Geologists rise all above - the climbers will help. Reliable protection of the state border - thousands of kilometers of mountain ranges. PE in the mountains - Assistant Alpinist. A high-altitude power station is laid - the first assistant is a climber.

But the point, of course, not only in this. Born, mountaineering did not die. He gained strength strength, won the world. It happened - it means it was necessary, it was necessary .. a person never comes meaningless. He does nothing like that, without meaning. To do for sample - maybe, but to dill with centuries - no. Another thing, not all this meaning see. But this happens not only with mountaineering.

Dangerously! Yes, dangerous. But isn't the skier rushing down the slope at a speed of 130 kilometers per hour, does not risk more than the climber? Is there a car rod outgoing for the sound barrier, spoke from death? Do travelers traveling in the 80s of the twentieth century on dogs to the North Pole, do not risk staying forever in the ice desert? Is a man crossing the ocean alone, is protected from dangers? And are there less them than climbers?

No, of course, no less. The man was looking for and will look for the opportunity to experience himself. The man goes to the mountains, because they are obstacles. A person is looking for resistance to know his capabilities.

The climber who conquered the greatest peaks of the planet acts on behalf of all people. He, like any test, shares with other discoveries. Height - opening climbers. This does not refute no one. Aviation is the second height threshold. Cosmonautics - Third. And the height, caught man in the fight against the vertices - the first. I do not know how these three heights are connected. But I am sure - this is the connection .. as it is in the man itself: the connection of three heights is the soul, words and actions. Of which is from which a person is.

Only so, it seems to me, and you need to approach the Pamir drama - from the height of man. Only then can be seen in it and hope, and the meaning, and not just a tragedy. Only then can truly evaluate the actions of people.

From Moscow, letters went from the sports committee - they went to the tables of heads of factories, enterprises, organizations of the country. In them, the same request: in connection with a special expedition to free such a thing on so much (without detention, at their own expense) then. It was, of course, about those whose candidates were already approved.

Not a single failure. None of the leaders became in the pose. None started a bureaucratic game. No one was preparing.

By the spring, a team of male climbers was equipped. At the very last moment, Shatayev accepted an unexpected decision: the expedition included two women (wishing, it was a lot!) - Any Anyaniev and Early Sabirov. One prescribed the cook, the other - radio. The case decided the phrase in their letter: "We are convinced that mountaineering is not only physical strength."

Before leaving the Pamir from Moscow, another one was left - the last one is the request of Shatale, this time the head of the Tashkent railway station. "On June 10, he wrote," by train 922 in the luggage car 3113 a special expedition was sent (the goal, as always, explained) weighing 700 kN. I am convincing you to resolve the question of the speedy departure of the baggage to Andijan Station. "

And then the reaction was instantant: "under control!".

... He repeatedly recalled the strip of snow, which he saw one day from the tent during his old, almost the first trip to the mountains. It was earlier morning, the first rays of the sun fell on the snow, and the cleanliness of snow struck Shatale. It seemed that such purity in nature could not. But she was, he saw her.

Now he seemed to see her in life.

Actions

The tents were installed in the same place where there were previously tents of the women's team. Around the already Green onions, fluffy edelweices swam.

The coaching council clarified the latest details, route and timing. Climbers broke into three groups. Even among the strongests, it was necessary to identify the most enduring.

Stood great, good days. Acclimization climb began strictly on schedule. Raised 4500 - satisfied the cave station, descended down, to the glade. Raised by 5000 - arranged a snow cave, descended down, to the glade. Raised by 6000 - arranged a snow cave. Go down to the glade. Now it was clear to whom at what height work.

The first group of ten climbers entered Sokolov, Davydenko, Grakovich, Mashkov, Kavyunko, Aisenberg, Petrasko, Baybara, Macauskas. Group. Like the entire expedition, headed by Shatayev. Now no one said - I am against. Shatayev and he himself had long committed long as any doubts. He was confident: what they do is holy. His charm of the merciless of the world, who surrounded him remained the same.

Everything was as it should be.

Of course, attempts to understand, realize this story, its individual moments still continued. But this, as he understood, will always be - no matter how much time. But now, these days, everything was in Lada in him - and thoughts and actions. No ambiguities. In essence, what they did, maybe, and was the highest form of awareness, because, acting, and not otherwise, they claimed, and did not deny morality.
May be.

The day came: the long chain of people - thirty people - reached out to the greatest top of the Pamir. People walked measured, silently, stubbornly. Over them, the boundless blue sky extended, inferior in its infinity only the Universe of the Human Spirit.

The operation lasted 14 days. No error, nor a single failure was applied.

... They were buried in soft, fluffy ground, on a hill, destroyed by Edelweiss, in purple of the main peaks. Memorial plates flashed in the sun as eight mirrors. There was a rally. Here, in the tract of Achik-Tash, traveled fathers and mother, relatives, friends and comrades.

The names of all were repeated in all speeches: Elvira Shatayev, Nina Vasilyeva, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Favimtseva, Galina Transzyuk, Tatyana Bardasheva, Lyudmila Manchanova, Ilsiyar Muhamedov.

Put the Shataev. Spoke little. He said: Our climbers were gentle and courageous women. They conquered the peaks ... A person will always check herself, including the mountains. This will never end - no men or women. Like everyone, he concluded a farewell word, I wanted to bury the elite here, on this earth, at the foot of the mountains. So far there is a Pamir - there will always be people here ... The Pamir will help keep the memory of them forever.

The rally ended. But no one diverged. Did not move and Shatayev. He stood on the shared recent process of grass and looked at his comrades. Tomorrow they will be trapped in their cities - distant, scattered in a vast country. They will return to their work and left for time. It is quite possible, most of them will never see each other. Even probably. But while they were here - no one diverged.

Outdoor white peaks rose from all sides. After a month, another snow will sweep on them, and avalanches will come on separate slopes. The slopes are taken off and become brown. By autumn - if summer is hot - even the highest tops will change. From the ground it will seem that they are from bronze.

Only one thing will change: human nobility. That nobility that sanctifies people's lives in general, but also her worst days, our tragedies. That nobility, which helps to stand and stay by a person. What together with the will holds a person - if, of course, he wishes - at the height of the best of people, not always, maybe famous, but always beside us. His, this nobility, will not make the sun, not the years, nor avalanche, nor Solva.

But, standing in the glade of Edelweices, Shatayev did not think about it. Most likely, he did not think about anything at all about these minutes.

Read more in the 9th volume Ass article "while Pamir is worth".

Everything happens in life - including tragedies. Life is more complicated, there are incredible situations - not only in the mountains. Fold on urban street, in the office, train, plane, in their own apartment. Everywhere! What at the same time, suffering defeat, remain a person? How, winning, to remain a person? How, despite the speeds, difficulties, contradictions and personal cataclysms, keep in themselves, without which the spirit of man is an empty sound? Without which the heart is a pump for pumping blood?

…In 1974 the team died Elvira Shatayeva with her.

What happened to the team? They knew only in general terms. The girls rose to Lenin's peak - the goal is achieved. The camp congratulated them, handed over good wishes and tips on the descent. Tips, however, were not useful: almost immediately after communication, a hurricane hit the mountains. He found the team at the top of the top. Shatalev according to the radio said: visibility worsens, the temperature drops, the wind increases - the hurricane covered the entire top.

The girls kept, as they could. The wind in the shreds ruined their chopper tents, charged the primus, warm clothes. They fought for life courageously and desperately. Radio communication with Elvira Shatayeva was constant - to the end. Before the words: " We are dying ... two remains ... Forgive, dies last».

After the first distress signal, Chelyabinsk and Novosibirsk climbers were sent. British and French athletes came from the international camp. I managed to contact the Japanese - those were at the top. The Japanese have established a connection with the Americans - they were separated by 300-400 m of heights. Everyone came to the help of girls. But the hurricane blocked the path.

Late in the evening, the base handed over to one of the rescue groups: "The tragedy upstairs ends."

The first to discover dead after Hurricane was six Japanese and three American climbers. The Japanese reported: "We see them. What should we do?". The base answered: "Make a map of the drama."

The sketch scheme passed by the Japanese did not clarify the essence of the drama. In addition, the expense of the dead - according to the Japanese - did not coincide with the number of the team ...

Shatayev took himself in hand. He said: "I have to climb to the top. I will collect guys, and we will rise to the top. "

The route of the girls was known for him. Only he knew each in his face. Almost all were "for". But some opposed - including such authority as Anufrikov. "It is impossible to foresee," he said, "as Shatayev (Ellvira's husband), will lead herself at the height. Especially on the site of the drama. "

The argument is serious: the shock of Shatayev was obvious. And understandable. The question decided Abalakov: "There must be - Shatayev." Almost five from class climbers remained. All from Chelyabinsk.

4,000 meters became bad with Tomplel. Accompanied by Tonkov, it was sent down. The climb continued to three. They walked with a set of height 1.100 meters per day. Alpine meadows were covered with a metering layer of snow. Pamir has long been not so white.

Before entering the comb, it remains quite a bit. Shatayev said: "I will go first." His thoughts were confused and sniffing.

The sports class Elvira was extremely high. In a short time, she, essentially, began to be closed with such recognized masters as Agranovskaya, Nononova, Rozhalskaya, Cherezov. She marked the beginning of a collective, independent female mountaineering in the country and the world.

Even before that, Elvira's team climbed the peak Eugene Korzhevskaya - the whole four was awarded medals "for outstanding sports achievements."

When the comb seemed, they understood - already there.

Let's follow the third day of climbing. Shatayev raised his head. A picture has opened in front of him, forget that never will be able to never succeed: under a shining blue sky on a huge snow-covered slope, several drops were tempted - one above the other ...

The first lay Elvira

- He recognized her ...

Came up. Has stopped.

The wind missed in the Yves Prutik, left by the Americans. Stick in the snow ice ax. I took the hand ...

Found everyone.

The Japanese did not notice Nina Vasilyev - she lay under the remains of the tent.

The work was exhausting. The slabs from the snow were drank alternately. Made the first control tour. Made the second. There was no such transcendent grave at the height of seven kilometers in the world. Having finished with everything, frozen over snowy plates. In the eternal silence of the mountains of their minute, silence was unlikely to be noticeable.

So ended the first act of this drama. And was the second.

In early 1975, the preparation of a special expedition began.

From Moscow, letters went from the sports committee - they went to the tables of heads of factories, enterprises, organizations of the country. In them, the same request: in connection with a special expedition to free such something, so much (without detention, at their own expense), then. It was, of course, about those whose candidates were already approved.

Not a single failure. None of the leaders became in the pose. None started a bureaucratic game. No one was preparing.

By the spring, a team of male climbers was equipped. At the very last moment, Shatayev accepted an unexpected decision: the expedition included two women (wishing, it was a lot!) - Any Anyaniev and Early Sabirov. One prescribed the cook, the other - radio. The case decided the phrase in their letter: "We are convinced that mountaineering is not only physical strength."

Before leaving the Pamir from Moscow, another one was left - the last one is the request of Shatale, this time the head of the Tashkent railway station. "On June 10, he wrote," by train 922 in the luggage car 3113, a special expedition was sent (the goal, as always, explained) weighing 700 kg. I am convincing you to resolve the question of the speedy departure of the baggage to Andijan Station. "

And then the reaction was instantant: "under control!".

The coaching council clarified the latest details, route and timing. Climbers broke into three groups.

The first group of ten climbers entered Sokolov, Davydenko, Grakovich, Mashkov, Kavyunko, Aisenberg, Petrasko, Baybara, Macauskas. A group, like the whole expedition, headed Shatayev.

The day came: the long chain of people - thirty people - reached out to the greatest top of the Pamir.

The operation lasted 14 days.

... They were buried in soft, fluffy ground, on a hill, destroyed by Edelweiss, in purple of the main peaks. Here, in the tract of Achik-Tash, traveled fathers and mother, relatives, friends and comrades.

The names of all were repeated in all speeches: Elvira Shatayev, Nina Vasilyeva, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Favimtseva, Galina Transzyuk, Tatyana Bardasheva, Lyudmila Manchanova, Ilsiyar Muhamedov.

Buried here - at the foot of the mountains, where people always come. The Pamir will help keep the memory of them forever.

P. S.

(01.12.1938–07.08.1974) – Moscow. She graduated from the Moscow Art School by profession the artist. He worked in the arteel named after March 8 installer of the puppet head (1957-1958). I wrote a fables in the journal "Fisheries cooperation" (February 2, 1958) "Bear to Arthals", after which it was dismissed. He worked as an instructor of the sports committee of the Kiev district of Moscow. DPO "Spartak". Mountaineering instructor, climbing judge. MS USSR from 12/18/1970. From 15 years he was fascinated by high-speed skating (participated in competitions in Petrozavodsk). After the injury went to the mountains for recovery, where he rested in 1962 in Alpalage "Schhelda". And then some climb: 1964 - Gweetra (B), 2B. 1965 - Kichkinkol (B) - 2a; Archimedes - 3a and 3b. 1969 - MNR (SV) - 4B; 1969 - Sumark (VZ), traverse - 4a; p. Shchurovsky, 5b; Ushba, Traverse - 5a. 1970 - P. Komsomol - 2a and 4b, on the wall, May; Songuti. - 5b, PP; Pasyinarias, 5b; P. Vils - 5a. 1971 - n. Communism, along the edge "Petrel" - 5a, a third woman on top. 1972 - In the summer, formed the first female climbing group for climbing N. Evgenia Korzhevskaya (7.105 m). In the harsh meteorological conditions, the Group which entered Elvira, rose to the top (Rozalskaya, I. Muhamedov, A. Son). The USSR Sports Committee participants were awarded the medal "For outstanding sports achievement." 1973 - led the first female group on the traverse of the vertices of Ushba (A. Klokov, Beloborodova, I. Muhamedov, L. Morozova). Foreign trips: Austria, Bulgaria, Switzerland (meeting of women climbing in Europe). 1974 - led the group of 8 women. After reaching the top of the peak of Lenin (7134 m), the group died. The strongest hurricane did not leave chances for survival. Elvira could say about himself by verses of the great poet Robert Burns: "In the mountains of my heart." It was not even passionateness, but passion. In this young, fragile on the sight of a woman lived an all-drying will of the conqueror of the mountains. Once Elvira said: "It seems to me that only in the mountains you can understand the greatness of our planet. Somewhere I read that a person in the mountains feels like a dust of the universe, depending on the whims of the element. It is not true! Nowhere does the feeling of own strength, power, keenness, like when a person reaches the top and over it only the sky - bottomless, blue, peaceful. Well, of course, not always blue and not always peaceful ... ". (Prepared by V. Shatayev).

Explain why some people are mounted mountains, it is impossible. The desire to test yourself for strength, stay alone with nature, to conquer the impregnable height, to get away from the concerns of everyday life ... The reasons can be different and, as a rule, everything is "nejevskiy". Today we recall one of the most tragic episodes in the history of Soviet mountaineering - climbing a female tourgroup on peak Lenin In 1974. All participants of the expedition reached the goal, no one returned back.

The "boom" of the mountaineering overwhelmed the Soviet youth in the 60s and 1970s, the popularity of this sport was undeniable, the benefit, the seven thousandths in the country were enough. Among those who decided on brave trips were not only men, but also women. The latter were not inferior to the strong floor in endurance, courage and organizedness and often committed ascents as part of the "male" groups.

Speaking of the death of participants to the rush of Lenin, it is impossible not to be remembered in which people also died with unexplained circumstances ...

The federation of mountaineering and climbing of Moscow invites the 35th traditional cross "Memory eight".

According to the results of the cross, the five best novice climbers (three men and two girls) will be awarded free junction in Alpalage "Bezengi".

Petzl will provide the climbers equipment for the entire period of training sessions and climbing.

From the history

"Memory eight." What happened? Who do we want to remember? Who are these eight?

1974 year. Pamir. At the Peak of Lenin, the participants of the women's team of the USSR team died: Elvira Shatayeva, Nina Vasilyeva, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Favimsyva, Galina, Tatyana Bardasheva, Lyudmila Manchanova, Ilsiyar Muhamedov.

In the seventies, a strong female climbing team was organized in the Soviet Union. More precisely, several strong mountaineers appeared during these years, and further fate brought them into one team. They not only managed to go through a purely female composition of some of the most complicated routes, but got to high-rise mountaineering.

The idea of \u200b\u200bclimbing the seven thousandths was expressed by Elvira in 1971. All winter she picked up the team. In the summer of the 72nd Women's Four: Galina Rozalskaya - Head, Ilsiar Muhamedova, Antonina Son, Elvira Shatayev conquered Peak E. Korzhevskaya (7105 m). In 1973, Elvira organized and headed another female expedition, which made the traverse of the legendary ear.

As you can see, women's autonomous expeditions were successful. In the 1974 season, Lenin's peak was chosen as the least dangerous vertex (in 45 years, from the moment of conquest, not a single person died there). The selected route was, in fact, the traverse of the peak of Lenin: lifting through the rock of Lipkin - the top - the descent through the vertex of separate.

That year on the slopes of the peak there were especially a lot of snow. On July 25, one of the strongest climbers of America Harry Ulin died in a snowy avalanche. He became the first victim of the mountain. In early August, the mountain took a new sacrifice - Swiss Evu Issenshmidt. Reason: Extreme meteo conditions that have developed in the area of \u200b\u200bLenin's peak.

July 10 in Osh gathered a women's team. Many of them saw each other for the first time. Some Elvira knew the past climbing, the rest only by correspondence. By the end of July, women made two acclimatization exit. Of the nine applicants left eight.

On August 4, they were last seen one of the descending groups. Next, the picture of the incident is built up from radio summary.

"... Comb nearby. Somewhere on August 2, at 13 o'clock, Elvira handed over to the base: "It remains for about an hour before going to the comb. Everything is good, the weather is good, the breeze is messenger. The path is simple. Well-being is good. While everything is so good that you are even disappointed in the route ... "

In the morning, on August 4, a group of Georgy Korupanov moved somewhere at the highest point. They walked on the other side. By the evening, reaching the top, started the descent and went to darkness to descend a few hundred meters in the opposite direction, to the vertex of separate. Between these three rolling points - the teams of Shatayev, Gavrilov, Korepanov - and the base was maintained a regular connection - or straight, or by transmission through an intermediary. At the bottom of the transfer led Vitaly Mikhailovich Abalakov.

Elvira - Basis: "While we talked to you, the guys" made "Lenin's peak (meaning the Korepanov group. - V. Sh.). We can enjoy it. But tomorrow we can also congratulate us. Let Korpanov meet us on separate, heats Tea. Congratulations to Jore Happy Birthday. We wish you all the best. We bring you a gift. Peak Lenin You have already conquered, now we wish the eight-thousandths. "

Corepanov - Elvira: "I'm waiting for a present. Come faster. We continue to warm for you tea. Go faster. Do you need this mountain? If I did not chase me, I would not go."

Shatueva - Base: "We went to the top."

Base. "Congratulations!".

Shataeva - Base: "Visibility is bad - 20-30 meters. We doubt the direction of descent. We decided to put the tents, which was already done. The tents put the tandem and settled. We hope to see the path of descent when improving the weather."

Base: "I agree with such a solution. Once there is no visibility, it is better to wait in the extreme case here, on top, spending the night, if possible."

Shatalev: "Conditions tolerant, although the weather does not indulge, there is no visibility. The wind, as we said, here always. I think I don't freeze. I hope the night will not be very serious. Feeling good."

Shatueva - Base: "We didn't change the weather at all. There was no visibility. We got up at 7 o'clock and all the time watch the weather - whether there will be no clearance in the fog to determine, orient to descent. And now for 10 hours, and nothing, no improvements . Visibility is still as low - about 20 meters. What will the base, Vitaly Mikhailovich advise us? "

Abalakov: "Let's talk at 13 o'clock. Dress up.

August 6, 13 hours. Shatalev (alarming notes are heard in his voice): "Nothing has changed. No lumen. The wind began to be striking, and rather sharply. Visibility is also not, and we do not know: Where do we still move? We are ready to go out at any time. But Time passed ... We are now preparing lunch. We want to have dinner and be ready to get ready for 10-15 minutes, no more. Does the Jora have any recommendations for us? Tell me not where in our direction? "

Klezko - Shatayeva: "If bad weather and nothing can be seen, then it is better to stay in place."

Shataleva: "We will now discuss and take a decision."

August 6, 17 hours. Shataleva - Base: "The weather did not improve at all, on the contrary, it worsens more and more. We are tired of it ... so cold! And we would like to leave the top down. We have already lost hope for clearance ... And we just want to start ... In all likelihood, the descent ... Because the top is very cold. Very strong wind. Very much blows. Before the descent, Vitaly Mikhailovich, listen to you - that you will tell us on our offer. And now we would like to invite To the doctor's radio station. We have a question, we need to consult. "

Lobusev: "What is the case? What a consultation need?"

Shataleva: "We have a participant fell ill."

Questions and answers to establish a diagnosis.

Lobusev: "I assume that this is the beginning of pneumonia. The group should immediately descend."

Shataleva: "I understood. Good. Now we will make injections, collect tents and immediately - after 15 minutes - start the descent" ... "

"... that day there was no longer that day. Women started descent. But about the events of this evening it became known from the morning transmission August 7. Requesting Shataev, the camp heard:

Shatalev - Basis: "Yesterday at 23 o'clock, Irina Favimtseva tragically died ..."

August 7, at two o'clock in the morning, a hurricane fell on the top. Hurricane - in the most encyclopedic understanding of this word. How to explain what this means? .. The one that comes down and breaks down the roofs, breaks the walls, the wagon breaks, the trees, puts the masts ... upstairs much fierce. Here he is fresh, not Istripped by the ridges ... And the man who fell into him is like midge, tightening a vacuum cleaner, is also helpless, and if in fact, then with the same misunderstanding of what is happening ...

The hurricane ruined the tents in the shreds, took things - mittens and primuses, - squeezing them down the slope. Something managed to save, and most importantly - the radio. They handed over this morning decadatholic link.

Fifteen minutes after the received message, despite the bad weather, a squad of Soviet climbers came out of the base camp. Alone, on his own initiative, the French, the British, Austrians went to the aid of the victim. The Japanese left their Biwak at 6500 and moved towards the ridge. Two hours of fruitless, with a risk for the life of searching for a molestly changing club ... They did everything that could ... Alas! Americans could not do anything.

Shataleva - Base: "We died two - Vasilyeva and Fateeva ... It took things ... on five three sleeping bags ... We are very frowning, it is very cold. The hands are very frozen ..."

Base: "Move down. Do not fall in spirit. If you can't go, then move, you are all the time in motion. Please enter the connection every hour if it is possible."

August 7, about 15.15.Shatueva: "We are very cold ... I can't dig a cave ... there is nothing to dig. You can't move ... I caught the backpacks ..."

August 7, 20 hours. From above, another message about the hopeless state of the group came.

Base - group: "Make a hole, instead. Tomorrow I will help. Street until the morning."

The transfer this time leads Galina junction. It is heard the exit to the air, but no more silence. Then cry. It is very difficult to understand the words - "forgive" or "sorry"? Finally: the junction - the database: "There are two of us ... There is no strength ... After fifteen-twenty minutes, we will not be alive ..." Already twice, pressing the ration button - attempts to go on the air ... "

Venue - Pokrovskoe-Streshnevo Park.